MarineCreatures
Stories from the Field

Diving with Giants: A Young Marine Biologist's Unforgettable Encounter

Dominica, Caribbean · 2003–2008

A field story by Rowan Byrne

Location

Dominica, Caribbean

Year

2003–2008

Species / Subject

Leatherback Sea Turtle · Green Sea Turtle · Hawksbill Sea Turtle

Type of encounter

Sea turtle rescue · Conservation management · BBC Wildlife Magazine

Rowan's role

Marine biologist · Conservation manager · RoSTI project lead

It all began in February 2003. Fresh from years spent in the Philippines, where I immersed myself in researching protected species such as dugongs and sea turtles along with marine habitats like seagrass beds, mangroves, and coral reefs, I had absorbed a wealth of knowledge about sea turtles from the incredible Filipino people and PCP (Pawikan Conservation Project in the Philippine government). I then landed an exhilarating opportunity in Dominica, the Commonwealth of Dominica, in the Lesser Antilles Islands in the Caribbean.

The project was driven by Miss Beverly Diekel from Minnesota and Mr. Patrice Oscar from Dominica. For years, they had witnessed the heart-breaking slaughter of endangered leatherback, green, and hawksbill sea turtles on Dominica's beaches. Understanding the cultural, societal, and economic drivers behind this, they recognised the urgent need to protect these magnificent creatures. Beverly, passionate about conservation, funded the Rosalie Sea Turtle Initiative (RoSTI), and I was brought on to manage it.

Little did I know that over the next five years, this journey would present opportunities beyond my wildest dreams. From working with Disney and Johnny Depp and Keira Knightley on "Pirates of the Caribbean" to collaborating with the BBC on a wildlife documentary and my good friend Gavin Thurston. Each experience deepened my passion for marine biology and the marine environment. Among these remarkable moments, one stands out as a once-in-a-lifetime encounter: diving and rescuing an endangered giant leatherback sea turtle in Scott's Head.

In July 2005, my friend Dave Fabian, nicknamed Pumba, called me with urgent news: a leatherback had become entangled in a fishing trap in Scott's Head Marine Reserve. I jumped into my truck and raced through the rough terrain and mountains of Dominica, driven by a mix of adrenaline and concern. Upon arrival at the rocky beach of Scott's Head, I could hear the stressed exhalations of the giant turtle about 150 yards from the shore.

Leatherback sea turtle Dominica Caribbean ocean — Rowan Byrne marine biology conservation
© Rowan Byrne / MarineCreatures
Dominica, Caribbean · 2003–2008 · © Rowan Byrne / MarineCreatures

"Her eyes, filled with a mix of fear and trust, watching me closely as I began to cut the ropes. I felt a profound connection with this magnificent creature."

Dave and I paddled out alongside a boat, and as we approached, I was struck by the sheer size of this living dinosaur. The leatherback's head was the size of a basketball, its body as large as a small car, and its flippers spanned the length of an average doorway in your home. This ancient leviathan, with its rough yet smooth, flexible skin, was entangled in ropes, struggling and stressed — time was critical to her survival.

Without hesitation, I swam towards her and dived down underwater to get a good look. Up close, the turtle's enormity was breath-taking. Her eyes, filled with a mix of fear and trust, watching me closely as I began to cut the ropes. Despite the danger to myself, I worked methodically, avoiding her powerful flippers. I felt a profound connection with this magnificent creature as I carefully cut the rope across her shoulder. She seemed to understand I was helping and calmed down, her exhalations softening, trying to return to normal.

Finally, after what felt like an eternity, I freed her. She turned slowly, almost as if to say goodbye, and swam off with a small piece of rope still trailing behind her. As she disappeared into the depths, the pressure of swimming eventually freed her from the remaining rope. Back in the boat, Dave and I were ecstatic. This rescue was not just a personal victory but a powerful example of the need for turtle conservation. The story of this rescue was later featured in BBC Wildlife Magazine, furthering our outreach and educational efforts.

Swimming with this giant leatherback, a creature from prehistoric times, was a humbling and awe-inspiring experience. It solidified my commitment to marine biology and conservation, highlighting the importance of protecting these magnificent creatures. The support and collaboration from the people of Dominica, particularly in Scott's Head, made this journey unforgettable. To this day, I am grateful for the opportunity to work with the sea turtles of Dominica. It has shaped my career and deepened my commitment to preserving our ocean's wonders.

What this encounter taught me

Swimming with this giant leatherback, a creature from prehistoric times, was a humbling and awe-inspiring experience. It has shaped my career and deepened my commitment to preserving our ocean's wonders.

A field story by

Rowan Byrne

Marine Biologist · Marine Ecologist · Conservationist · Photographer

These are first-person accounts from Rowan Byrne's own career and field experiences, spanning more than three decades of marine biology, conservation, diving and wildlife photography.

MarineCreatures

Exploring, understanding and protecting the world's oceans — with over 30 years of marine science expertise.

Rowan Byrne · Marine Biologist

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